Lecture On hemp Fiber Highlights Its History, Modern Relevance

TOBIE BLANCHARD

BATON ROUGE, LOUISIANA

Casey Stannard admits she didn’t have any experience with hemp fiber throughout her studies and career in apparel design until she took on a recent research project.

The associate professor in the LSU College of Agriculture Department of Textiles, Apparel Design and Merchandising said that was the case for many of her students and colleagues even though hemp was the first cultivated fiber, with evidence of hemp ropes in ancient China and along the Dead Sea dating back between 3,000 and 10,000 B.C.E. 

Stannard presented a lecture on Nov. 8 at the Louisiana Old State Capitol showcasing the multifaceted history, uses and industry potential of hemp fiber. The lecture was part of Hemp Impressions: Sustainable Fiber and Fashion Reimagined, a pop-up exhibition of hemp garments and accessories at the Louisiana Old State Capitol. 

Stannard’s research and the exhibit was part of a grant she received from the LSU AgCenter’s Therapeutic Cannabis Research Committee.

Hemp has come in and out favor as a crop in the United States, according to Stannard. She said our Founding Fathers grew it, but production slowed in the 1930s. It saw a resurgence during World War II as a war crop under the “Hemp for Victory” campaign. 

“They were really trying to get people excited to grow hemp for the war effort. We were running out of fiber, and everything was going overseas,” Stannard said. “So that gave it a little bit of life again.” 

In 1970, the Controlled Substances Act outlawed the production of hemp, but the 2018 Farm Bill reintroduced industrial hemp, and it is grown again in the U.S. Its economic value in 2023 was $291 million. Louisiana farmers have had issues growing hemp in our climate. Stannard said the disease southern blight has made it difficult.

In addition to the history of hemp fiber, Stannard discussed the method of harvesting and processing hemp fiber, its sustainable aspects and how it fits into the fashion industry. 

Stannard said reflecting on her lack of experience with hemp, she realized there was likely an issue with others teaching or studying apparel design who didn’t have strong knowledge of hemp as an option.

“We just need to get exposed to hemp. We need to know what it is. We need to know why it's cool,” she said. 

Part of the project was an exhibit challenge. Stannard put out a call for hemp garments earlier this year and got 31 entries. They accepted 22 into the Hemp Impressions exhibit. The pieces ranged from a transformable outfit that converted into two looks, a necklace, a tufted top, denim pieces and even a wedding grown. 

The pieces were on display during Stannard’s lecture where she described each. Attendees could get a closer look at the details when the lecture concluded. 

A recording of the lecture can be viewed at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=noBFl7IaQBc.  ∆

TOBIE BLANCHARD: LSU AgCenter